ADDING SOUND TO BOLEX 8MM CAMERAS

QUESTION:  "Would it be possible to have a flash sync contact added to my bolex p2 ? I'm looking for a way to connect it to my sync pulse box in order to shoot with sync sound."

ANSWER:  I don't know of any way to sync the P2 to audio. The typical/usual method for MOS (no sound) cameras is to record sound via the "Double-system" recording method:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-system_recording

The finished film is converted to digital format and the sound track is added in post. Any small differences in the recording rates for sound can be corrected in post.

You can use any digital or analog sound recording system. Digital will give you cleaner audio. Typically recorders:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=14934&N=3992462091&srtclk=sort

I use this one:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/832911-REG/Tascam_DR100MKII_DR_100mkII_Portable_Linear.html

I recommend using something like this with XLR inputs. The DR-100 MKII has 2.

Use a shotgun mic on a pole with a shock mount. I have a this mic:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/97711-REG/Audio_Technica_AT8035_AT8035_Shotgun_Microphone.html

I use this pole and a shock mount:

     http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Microphone-Accessories/Microphone-Fishpoles/Testrite-Instrument-Co/MFP-2.xhtml

I bought the long one (150" fully extended) used, off of eBay for $35 plus S&H.  The Testrite poles are the cheapest. You can buy lighter poles for more money. The Testrites are aluminum and well made. Can't complain for the price.

I got the shock mount here:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/68143-REG/Audio_Technica_AT8415_AT8415_Universal_Shock_Mount.html

Try to get the mic as close as possible to the speaking person. Typically about a meter away from the speaker face. Aim the mic like a gun - right at the face. Be sure to keep the mic out of the picture. Practice with the camera operator.

A shotgun mic helps eliminate the sound from the sound sources to the sides of the microphone. A handy feature to get cleaner sound. AVOID anything mounted on or near the camera's body.  Bolex cameras are really noisy. Gears and such :)

You can also use a wireless mic such as these:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=sony+wireless+mic&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

HISTORY
Bolex 8mm cameras never had sound. They were designed as MOS (no sound). Sound recorders back then were tape based. Not very good, except for the Nagra system which cost thousands :( 

And because the film systems were 100% film based, to get sound from 8mm film you would have to print (optically copy) the 8mm film to 16mm sound film and make a sound track transfer. 

Very expensive. 

Since 8mm films were typically very short; nobody added sound. You just flipped the projector on and spoke about what you saw...

...this is where Harry saw Bigfoot and...

Super8 film stock did have a sound track and the cameras came with a built-in microphone. Super8 film stock is still sold, but it no longer includes a "Magstrip", or magnetic. I.e, the recording sound track :(  

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=super8+film+stock&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Keep in mind that some of the above film stock is marked "Super8". It will NOT fit in your P1-P2 or P3. Avoid ANY film stock that says, "Super8". Super8 film stock ONLY fits and ONLY works in Super8 cameras. And remember, NO sound.

You will need to use "Double Run" film stock:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=double+run+8+film+stock&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

The 2 stocks are totally different. Keep that in mind. If your Bolex camera has 2 reels, it uses "Double run or Regular 8" - not Super8 film stock. 

When using a "double-system" recording, you will need to sync the sound to the footage. Use a slate or clapboard like these:

      http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Production-Slates/ci/16664/N/4028759379

 I used this one:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/885803-REG/Alan_Gordon_Enterprises_1050_02color_Color_Combo_Scene_Slate_Pouch_Marker.html

The click (clap) of the clapper/slate gives you an audible point to sync (align) the sound. The markings on the slate gives you the scene #, etc.  Makes things easier in post. 

No slate? Clap hands in front of lens just prior to action and have the person who claps their hands speak the scene number, etc.

INTERMEDIATE GEAR PROBLEMS

All bolex 8mm cameras are spring wound. The torque from the spring motor drives an intermediate gear which in turn drives a vertical shaft that interfaces with the speed regulator and the claw mechanism. If you have a Bolex 8mm camera, there is one of these gears inside your camera. You want to repair the camera? You need to do a few things first or you will have a intermediate gear problem. Here's why...

Unwind Me

The first step to repair any spring wound camera is to 'run the motor down'. This means to press the run button until the camera motor stops turning. Not sure? Button doesn't start the camera?

Older cameras are lubricated with both oil and grease. After 50+ years of storage, the grease can harden. The hardened grease can prevent the motor from working. Solution? Remove and re-lubricate. To do this you need to disassemble the camera. This is where the intermediate gear can get damaged.

If you fail to run the motor down properly, the remaining spring tension will still be applying torque to the drive gears. Not knowing this, you remove the 5 screws holding down the cameras top plate and remove the plate. You see the insides of the camera. The gears, regulator, the spring motor, etc. You think, "All I need to do is to oil or grease them!" 

Well...not quite.

They are still filthy dirty so they should be cleaned. You figure this out too and look over the camera. You find the 4 screws holding down the shutter assembly. You accurately conclude that removing the 4 screws will allow you to remove the shutter assembly and further disassemble the camera. So out comes the screwdriver and you take out the 4 screws.

Pleased that you are saving money by doing it yourself, you carefully pull off the shutter.

Bzzzzzzzzzzz-zap!

You look inside and see all the teeth of the intermediate gear fully stripped off. Oops! The spring motor supplied the torque. The only thing keeping the spring motor's gear from turning was the shutter and you disconnected that when you removed it. The springs motor forced the intermediate gear to turn at "light speed" and during the rapid unwind, the bakelite (plastic) gear teeth grazed another metal gear. This sheared off all those teeth.

You now need another intermediate gear :( You may need another spring motor, too - Whaaaaaa!!!! Spring motors do NOT like to go from wound to unwound in less than a split second. It can damage the internal flat spring when it hits the end stop.

Need replacements parts? Bolexrepair.com has them.

Next time - run the motor down :)

SHUTTER CONTROL AND F/STOPS

Can I Cut The Light With The Shutter Setting?

Bolex D8L shutter settings varies from about 180 degrees (the silver half-moon) to zero degrees (the black half-moon). The half way setting of  90 degrees is accurate enough. So the answer is yes, you can a light cut 1 stop by selecting the mid point shutter setting. Controlling the light with the shutter does works well in still photography as the images are not moving.

If you set the shutter to half-closed (the half black/half silver HALF MOON symbol on the shutter dial), that setting is half way from the maximum open of 180 degrees to fully closed. About  90 degrees. The shutter angle will be cut by 1 stop. See page 47 of the Bolex D8L manual.

See this link for more of how a shutter works:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_%28photography%29

D8L accuracy is not specified, but it should be in "ballpark acceptable". As with all footage shot on a Bolex, keeping records of the setting and the results is a very good idea. Everybody's mileage will vary as the camera settings/projectors/screen combinations will always be different.

Movie Film Camera

Use and effect of the shutter is slightly different with a movie film camera.  There are 3 basic ways to set light with a motion picture camera:

          1) Set the iris for the light - The DOF will be what

          it will be. This is how the Bolex manual explains

          setting the iris for the light.

          2) Set the pre-selected DOF with the iris, and

          control the light with ND filters or more light.

          3) Use both ND filter and iris settings in

          combination.

The method of setting light in professional motion picture film production cameras is primarily through a pre-determined iris setting (f-stop) and then re-adjusted for actual light using neutral density (ND) filters. Typically you will have either too much light or not enough.

With too much light, you can close the iris slightly or add an ND filter. Too little light, open the iris or take out or decrease the ND filter's strength. The situation here is changing the iris will affect the depth of field (DOF). ND filters will not affect the DOF.

How To Set

First, you select the location (indoors or outdoors) and the subject. Say you desire an f~5.6 setting for a slightly blurred background. Using your lightmeter, get the approximate f-stop setting by metering the subject after dialing in the f-stop for f~5.6 on the light meter's dial. Next, add or subtract light, as necessary using ND filter, bounce cards, light fixture, etc, to get the correct amount of light.

More Or Less Light

Outdoor light can be raised with a bounce card, an auxiliary hot light, etc. Outdoor light can be cut with an ND filter and anything that will lessen the light falling on the subject. Indoor lighting can be adjusted with bulb changes, additional lamp fixtures, scrims, etc, or ND filters. Obviously this is more work than just turning the iris to f-8 to chop 1 stop of light.

Effect of Short Shutter Angle On The Look Of The Film

If you use the shutter control to chop that one stop of light, the resultant moving picture image(s) will also be changed. The shutter's angle is now at a shorter angle of 45 degrees and can now impart a "stuttering appearance" onto the film depending on other settings. See "Saving Private Ryan", or The Gladiator", for examples of short (45 degree) shutter angles.

Also keep in mind that shorter angles will affect panning rates. Anytime a panning rate exceeds a particular speed/shutter angle/FPS settings, a corresponding condition will be created called "Rolling Shutter". Also known as "The Jello Effect" because of the look of the effect on the finished film. The rolling shutter/jello effect has been with filmmaking since the 1st film camera was invented. Is due to too fast of a pan rate and is 100% operator controllable. Got rolling shutter? Pan slower.

More here:

          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_shutter

ND filters or gels can also be used over windows to control light. Windowed gels can be used in conjunction with other lens filters to allow sunlight to be shot with indoor film. Or you can gel the indoor lights to match the outdoor light color temperatures coming through windows. With a film camera there is no white balance to correct for off-white conditions, but you can have the film converted to digital format and balance the digital footage if the color is slightly off.

Here's a link with some more info:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_disc_shutter

And finally, there is a somewhat rude, but technically correct answer, as to the effects of small shutter angles in a motion picture camera:

     http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120306163953AARUh4C

SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTION FOR BOLEX REFLEX BATTERY KIT

Besides a dead battery, there are a few things that could be affecting the needle movement / lightmeter operation...

1) The needle itself is 'stuck' to one side. This is typical after 50+ years of dirt and grime. The needle can 'stick" to the small, tubular, white colored,  plastic stop(s) on either side the galvanometer. Next time it happens, try rotating the ASA dial all the way in one direction and then the other, and finally back to your normal ASA setting. If the needle was stuck, this will usually dislodge it. The permanent cure is to remove the eyepiece diopter, and very, very carefully, clean the sides of the needle with a small swab soaked in alcohol. If you can see a 'fuzzy edge' on either side of the needle; the needle needs cleaning.

2) Some 'home-made' reflex battery adapters are built from a "stack of washers" or similar. The contact points between the washers can corrode or otherwise not make electrical contact. This causes an interruption in the battery circuit and the needle won't function. Loosening and re-tightening the battery cover may fix the problem temporarily. One of our customers even uses a wad of aluminum foil wrapped with tape as an adapter.

3) The 'U' shaped spring at the bottom of the battery may be permanently flattened. This can happen if the 'home-made' adapter length is too long. Sometimes the spring is broken in half at the bend section, and the new adapter is made to take up the difference in length. There will not be any tension from the spring so contact will depend on the battery cover being screw down tightly. If it is screwed down too tight, the spring holder (plug) itself will be pushed away from the cameras body. This in turn will prevent the ground ring from making a good ground connection with the camera body and the circuit may be interrupted.

4) Corrosion on the connections inside the camera located on the backside of the plug can cause an intermittent open. There are (2) wires. One connected to the grounding ring and 1 is connected (soldered) to the rivet holding the spring to the plug. If there is enough corrosion, the wires can have intermittent/bad contact. The fix is to replace the wires and/or the plug. Unfortunately, one of the wire going into the shutter is a "Litz wire". Litz wire is a woven strand type of wire. 

The weaving of the strands acts like a 'sponge" and leaking mercury can 'wick' its way all along the wire. As this happens, the wire corrodes and disintegrates. Typically up to the furthest point inside the shutter housing. Repair requires complete disassembly of the shutter housing and replacement of the Litz wire.

5) There is corrosion on the ground ring that is in between the plug and the camera body. The corrosion is caused typically, by a mercury battery being left in the camera too long and subsequently leaking creating a greenish-whitish powder-like coating. 

     BONUS! The ring is nickel plated steel and the camera body where is grounds is
     aluminum. Two dissimilar metals will most always promote corrosion.

This corrosion can be 1) on the threads of the cap and body or, 2) on or near the spring in the battery well. Sometimes the corrosion is superficial and while present, doesn't cause any problems. If corrosion is present, the battery contacts and related parts should be cleaned thoroughly. You can swab the battery well with plain vinegar, which is 5% acetic acid, and the acid will neutralize and dissolve the corrosion. Swap again with alcohol to remove any trace of the acid.

 

WE CAN FIX IT

If, when installing a BolexRepair battery replacement kit, you notice that the battery well spring in your camera is damaged, bent, missing, corroded, etc, we can replace the plug/spring and/or make a custom length adapter to specification. The normal gap length at the tip of the spring should be about 1/8".  

If the spring is bend down slightly (less than 1/8" gap), don't pull it up! This may cause the spring to crack or break. Best thing to do here is to insert a small piece (1/8" thick or so) foam rubber between the spring back and the black plastic spring holder. This will add a small amount of pressure to the back side of the spring. Be sure not to add to much. Just enough to cause the spring to move away from the bottom of the battery well.

If the tip of the spring is nearly closed, or is smashed flat, the adapter probably will not work. There is only about .025-.040" of compression of the spring necessary when the battery cap is fully seated. Machined aluminum adapters, as supplied with our kit, take up the exact length required for use with the thinner PR44 or 675 battery. Our adapter does not allow for damaged springs. Please contact us for an estimate to repair the battery well spring and/or rewire the lightmeter circuit

For more information on the lightmeter battery adapter kit:

http://www.bolexrepair.com/accs.html

LENS DUST AND OTHER PROBLEMS

What is lens dust and should I even worry about it? Maybe. Small amounts of dust and flecks are a very common issue for all lenses. A small amount of dust will have no effect on a lens' performance. Older lenses will always have some dust.

Inspecting Lens For Dust

Looking at the front or objective element of the lens, you can typically see some dust particles in all lenses.  To check closer, remove any filters and clean the front element of the objective lens. Looking straight into the lens from the lens' front, and look for dust. Then inspect the lens holding it at a slight angle and you may see more dust behind the front glass element.

Use a LED flashlight and with the camera iris open as far as possible (smallest f number possible), shine it looking again from the front side of the lens. A darkened room will help. While changing the angle, look for more dust. You will most likely see some dust perhaps only on one element.

If you find dust, and you most likely will, there is no cause for alarm. The dust typically does not cause any problems during filming. The reason is the dust is NOT located within any areas where the dust can have any real, noticeable effects. 

How Lenses Gather Dust

How does dust get inside a lens? Every time a lens is focused in and out, it “breathes”. The physical length on the lens is slightly changed and the resulting change compresses (pushes air out) or draws (pulls air in) air into the lens. 

It is during this lens "breathing" than the lens tends to "inhale dust particles". Dust can enter the lens as most lens to not have tight seals. If lenses were completely sealed to air entry, the lens would compress the air and hinder focusing.

What To Do With Lens Dust

You have notice some dust in your lenses. What should you do? Usually the fix is to "do nothing". Don’t be concerned  about it. You can minimize dust problems by storing your lenses properly and doing routine cleaning on a regular basis. 

Can I Remove Lens Dust Myself?

Don't try to remove internal dust youself. If the dust shows on finished film you basically, have 2 options: 1) have the dust cleaned by a professional or 2) replace the lens. If you decide to have the lens cleaned by a professional, get an estimate first. The cost to clean the lens may be more than the replacement cost. 

Some people think they can "blow the dust out" with compressed air. This does not work. More likely you will drive even more dust in to the lens body. Best bet is to leave it alone unless is presents a problem and then have it either professionally cleaned or replace it.

If it is a Bolex made Switar or Yvar lens, you may be able to find somebody to clean it. Maybe not. There is more to cleaning a lens than just unscrewing a few things and dusting off the elements. Some lenses need to be re-collimated. A fancy word for realigned, and it requires expensive equipment. 

Some other lenses such as Elgeet, Wolensak and others, are designed to easily come apart to be cleaned. A warning to those who would take a chance and work on their own lenses:

Be sure if you do this yourself that you note the order of the elements and the direction (in or out) of the curved part(s) of the element. Some lens elements look flat but are actually curved slightly. If you put element in backwards,  the lens will not function correctly. 

You may leave a fingerprint on the lens element. Be sure to clean it. Fingers have both acid and oil on them and can actually etch the glass rendering the lens useless. Lens parts and screws are very, very tiny easy to loose and very difficult to find. For a lens cleaning solution, the best is made by Pancro. You can mail-order it here:

                      http://www.filmtools.com/panlencleanf.html

Minimizing Dust And Fungus

Shooting in relatively clean environments, properly storing your gear in a cool, dry place and take care of it by performing regular cleaning and maintenance is the best way to eliminate fungus and minimize the amount of dust that ends up on and in your gear. 

If you are in a high humidity environment, consider using anti-moisture packets. Do a Google search on "moisture absorber packets".

Fungus

High moisture will contribute to fungus. Fungus typically looks like a light-ish white to dark black, wispy fine hairs in a small spot or as a black "dot". Depends on the type of fungi in the area where the lens used to live. If the fungus is on the inside of the objective lens, it can usually, but not always, be cleaned off.

If the spot is small, and/or located on the outer edge of any lens element, it typically will not show or affect the film's quality. 

It depends on the lens involved and location of the elements. Fungus left to its own devices over a long period of time can permanently damage a lens' coating. If fungus is on an element that has been coated, cleaning the fungus may remove some or all of the coating. Any doubt? Don't clean it.

Haze

Haze is a grayish appearing coating. It is formed from storage in a high temperature environment and the chemicals of the lubricant are "off-gassed" and reform onto the lens element surfaces.  Haze may look smoky or oily. Haze can be cleaned.

Scratches

If a scratch is big enough to see, chances are it may show as a bright line on finished film. Unless you want the look, the lens is not usable if its on finished film. No fix - replace. Small, fine scratches near the outer edges of the front element can be ignored if they don't show in finished film. 

Very fine scratches aka, "cleaning marks" are probably not a concern. If you are buying from eBay, ask about seller's return policy and bid lower on the lens. If it films ok, you got a deal. If not, return it.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR LENS AND FILTERS

TOOLS FOR CLEANING LENSES AND FILTERS

• Air blower (Never canned air!)
• Camel-hair brush
• Lens tissue or micro-fiber cloth
• PANCRO
• Methyl alcohol or Ethel alcohol

THE PROPER TECHNIQUE FOR CLEANING YOUR LENS OR FILTER

The surface of most camera’s lens has a coating designed to maximize contrast, color saturation as well as minimize flare. These coatings can be scratched easily when cleaning a lens, so it’s a good idea to pay attention.

1ST BRUSH OFF THE DIRT

If dust is the only problem, use a camel hair brush. Avoid using pressurized canned air. Canned air can actually blow dirt INTO the lens. Use a brush first will avoid scratching the lens surface.

SMUDGES

For smudges and fingerprints, take use  a soft micro-fiber cloth, Kimwipe, or a piece of lens tissue (folded, not bunched up), breathe onto the lens surface (never dry-clean a lens) and gently wipe the lens surface in a circular motion. Repeat if needed using a fresh piece of lens tissue or clean portion of the micro fiber cloth. 

KIMWIPES AND PANCRO

If this doesn’t work, spray a Kimwipe with Pancro cleaning solution or try dampening the tissue or cloth with a few drops of methanol (wood alcohol) or alcohol based lens-cleaning fluid and then, very gently, wipe the lens in a circular motion.

If the lens if filthy, repeat the procedure. Do not press hard down on the lens. Let the tissue and the solution do the work. The best of all possible wet cleaning solutions, in my opinion, is "Pancro". I use Kimwipes with Pancro.

KIMWIPES

Get 'em here or locally:

http://www.amazon.com/Kimberly-Clark%C2%AE-Professional-KIMWIPES-Delicate-Wipes/dp/B002XJKWO0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1362510557&sr=8-2&keywords=kimwipes

PANCRO

Pancro is available from several sources. All are mail-order. It is used by all of Hollywood's best Assistant Camera Operators to clean lenses. It not cheap, either. About $16 for 4 fluid ounces, plus S&H. Pancro advertises that they are the best. Their users say the same thing. Got valuable lenses? Use Pancro. You can find Pancro here:

http://www.filmtools.com/panlencleanf.html

                "Pancro Lens cleaning Fluid was judged the hands down best

                  lens cleaning solution at the Camera Assistant Olympics a few 

                  years back. It is considered the absolute best product in its field  

                  and is the first choice by most Camera Assistants world-wide. 

                  Made in USA."

SOLUTION TO PAPER

Never apply alcohol or lens-cleaning fluids directly onto the lens surface. It can leak into the lens (if unsealed), wick up, and streak the objective (front) lens on the inside. Apply any wet cleaning solution to the cleaning cloth or lens paper, first. Then do the cleaning. Some people like to fold the tissue flat. I prefer to bunch it up and apply the least amount of pressure possible letting the paper and the solution do the work.

EMERGENCY CLEANING

If necessary in a pinch, you can use a t-shirt or other cotton shirt or similar cotton-based material. Don't use facial tissue, paper towels, or polyester-based materials. A good photographer will always have a clean, cotton handkerchief with them for emergencies.

CLEAN NOW OR LATER

If their is a negligible amount of foreign contaminates on the lens and it is not going to affect film image quality and you do not have the proper cleaning gear, then consider waiting.

GOT DUST?

A few bits of dust floating between lens inner elements, or stuck to elements will have little, if any, visible impact on the sharpness levels of your photographs. Ignore it. Almost all lenses have some degree of dust internally. If you can't see it in the viewfinder; is won't be in the picture. If you see what appears to be dust in the viewfinder in a Bolex Reflex series camera, it most likely is on the reflex viewfinder and it won't show in the footage.

ADJUSTING BOLEX 8MM "DOUBLE RUN" LIGHT METERS

The procedure is called "Checking The Galvanometer Adjustment" and is in every Bolex 8mm manual except for:

            Reflex series, P1, 2 & P3, & all Bolex Super 8 cameras

Bolex 8mm "double run" 8mm camera with the letter L or LA in the model designation can be adjusted. This includes Bolex D8l, D8LA, C8L, etc.  If there is no L or LA, such as with B8 model, it means there is no metering system. This procedure is shown in all Bolex 8MM "Double run" printed camera manuals that have a light meter.

Step 1) Carefully pull out the clear plastic dial on the front of the light meter until it engages the chrome center piece. As long as you hold the dial out, the inner dial marker with the black triangle, will engage the inner dial and it can be turned.  While holding the dial out, turn the dial until the inner black triangle lines up with the outer black triangle on the outer dial.

Step 2) Holding the camera as you would for filming, note the relative position of the black meter needle and the red meter pointer. The black needle should be directly behind the red pointer. If it is, the meter is calibrated correctly.

Step 3) If the meter is not calibrated correctly, use a  small screwdriver such as a: Wiha 260 / 1,5 x 40mm screwdriver or equivalent. This screwdriver is available at Amazon.com:

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-26190-Phillips-Screwdriver-Precision/dp/B00018AO0W/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1362434124&sr=8-8&keywords=wiha+screwdrivers+slotted+set

I bought mine as a set from the above link. About $27.00 + S&H. You can find the screwdrivers in sets and individually at better hardware stores.

Step 4) Insert the screwdriver tip into the hole located on the top of the meter case near the shutter plate of the left, top side of the meter. Turn screw slowly in either direction until the needle and the indicator are lined up.

Done. If you turn the screw and the needle will not turn anymore, and indicators don't line up, try the other direction. Do not force the adjustment screw when it become "tight". It the meter cannot be adjusted correctly, either the selenium cell or the meter is bad. There are no internal adjustments in these cameras. In this case, both the meter and cell will have to be replaced as a "matched pair" from a donor camera.

All the meters are the same within the same series of cameras. D8L meters will fit a B8L camera as it is the same series. Later series of Bolex D8LA meters will fit C8LA, etc. LA series meters will not fit non-LA cameras. If you have a LA series camera, you will use a LA series camera as a donor. If you have a bad selenium cell or meter (needle), you will need to change BOTH as a matched pair. This is delicate work. New meters are not available. You'll need to buy a donor camera. Be sure the meter works.

Remember, the meter is designed for 25 and 40 ASA. Your will NOT find theses ASA speeds for sale anywhere. Typically you'll find ASA 100, 200 or 400. Maybe B&W film at a higher than 400 ASA. You will need to close the iris or use a neutral filter if the shutter control can't cover the difference in the calculated exposure index.

An external meter such as a Sekonic L-398 is recommended. See blog on metering with Ektachrome here:

http://www.bolexrepair.blogspot.com/2012/11/bolex-p1-kodak-ektachrome-100d-and.html

BOLEX REFLEX LIGHTMETER PROBLEMS

1) The needle itself is 'stuck' to one side. This is typical after 50+ years of dirt and grime. The needle can 'stick" to the plastic stop(s) on either side the galvanometer. 

Next time it happens, try rotating the ASA dial all the way in one direction and then the other, and finally back to your normal ASA setting. If the needle was stuck, this will usually dislodge it.

The permanent cure is to remove the eyepiece diopter, and very carefully, clean the sides of the needle with a small swab soaked in alcohol. If you can see a 'fuzzy edge' on either side of the needle, the needle needs cleaning.

2) The battery adapter is sometimes built from a stack of washers. The contact points between the washers corrode or otherwise don't make electrical contact. This causes an interruption in the battery circuit and the needle won't function. loosening and retightening the battery cover may fix the problem temporarily.

3) The 'U' shaped spring at the bottom of the battery well is permanently flattened. This can happen if the adapter length is too long. Sometimes the spring is broken in half at the bend point, and an adapter is/was made to take up the difference in length.

There will not be any tension from the spring so contact will depend on the battery cover being screw down tightly. If it is screwed down too tight, the spring holder (plug) itself will be pushed away from making a good ground connection and the circuit may be interrupted.

4) Corrosion on the connections inside the camera located on the backside of the plug is causing an intermittent open. There are (2) wires. One connected to the grounding ring and 1 is connected (soldered) to the rivet holding the spring to the plug. 

If there is sufficient corrosion, the wires can corrode and may have intermittent contact. The fix is to replace the wires and/or the plug.

5) There is corrosion on the ground ring that is in between the plug and the camera body. The corrosion is caused typically by a mercury battery being left in the camera for too long and subsequently leaking creating a greenish-whitish powder-like coating. 

This corrosion can be 1) on the threads of the cap and body or, 2) on or near the spring in the battery well. Sometime the corrosion is superficial and while present, sometimes doesn't cause any problems. 

If corrosion is present, the battery contacts and related parts should be cleaned thoroughly. You can swab the battery well with plain vinegar, which is 5% acetic acid, and the acid will dissolve the corrosion. Swap again with alcohol several times to remove any trace of the acid. Let all air dry.

When installing a new spacer kit and replacement Zinc Air Cell, be sure the spring in the battery well is in good operating order. If it is bent flat or damaged, it should be replace. 

The kit sold by BolexRepair.com is designed to be a direct replacement for the original mercury cell, and it depends on the spring being in good operating order. 

REFLEX ASA DIAL CALIBRATION

To check the ASA dial calibration:

 
To check for proper calibration of the Bolex reflex series ASA dial:

1) Open ASA dial lock

2) Turn the lock tab full counterclockwise (CCW)

3) The red colored 18 FPS mark should be opposite (between) the letters S&A of the ASA marking.

4) Turn the ASA control full clockwise (CW)

5) The red 18 should be opposite the first A of ASA
If the above settings don't match, the outer dial may have moved relating to its correct position or the galvanometer's internal gears may have moved relative to each other. Here's how to check:
1) Orient the camera so you are sighting from the lens towards the ASA dial.

2) If you tilt the camera whilst looking at the dial, you can see slightly under the top of the dial.

3) In a direct line with the center of the battery cap and the center of the ASA dial, you will see a series of 'cogs'.

4) Almost, but not quite directly on center, you will see a pin between two cogs.

5) Note where the pin is and look on the top of the dial.

6) The pin should be aligned between the 20 and 25 ASA settings.

The outer ring is glued down. The inner ring is attached to the galvanometer's shaft. The shaft end opposite the dial has a small gear that turns another gear at a right angle. Sometimes if the glued outer dial's bond is broken, the outer dial's cogs can 'jump' the pin. If it only jumps 1 pin, one way or the other, you can compensate.

Example: If pin has jumped one cog to the right, it will now shows the pin split between the 16 and 20 ASA markings. It is now reading and calculating the ASA incorrectly and the true ASA will now be somewhat higher than that read off the dial. Not a problem as the difference is only 4 ASA.

However, when you rotate the dial to ASA 100, the same offset of the pin jumping 1 position is now off by 25 ASA. You can make a mental note of how far the offset is allow for it. Typically, you will be using the same film and once the offset is set, you can just place  the ASA vs. FPS markings normally and the meter will read correct.

If the meter is off by more than a couple of cogs, or the ASA dial seems to jump around, the meter should to be overhauled and recalibrated. This involves removing the ASA dial. The center screw of the dial is cemented in place. On about half of the cameras I recalibrate, the dial screw snaps. Not sure why - rust perhaps. On the other half of the cameras, the screw comes out normally. 

If the screw breaks, the corresponding shaft of the meter assembly needs to be replaced. That in turn requires a complete camera disassembly down to the internal meter and the reassembly and recalibration of the meter and dial assemblies. This is one of those repairs that only the experienced can do. 

CLEANING THE BOLEX REFLEX LIGHTMETER NEEDLE

This is a common problem for the reflex series. The needle itself  can 'stick' to one side. This is typical after 50+ years of dirt and grime. If the camera is used in a smoking environment, cigarette tar can also contribute to the problem. The needle actually 'sticks' to the plastic stop(s) on either side the galvanometer.

Next time it happens, try rotating the ASA dial all the way in one direction and then the other, and finally back to your normal ASA setting. If the needle was stuck, this will usually dislodge it. The permanent cure is to remove the eyepiece diopter, and very carefully, clean the sides of the needle with a small swab soaked in alcohol. If you can see a 'fuzzy edge' on either side of the needle, through the diopter, the needle absolutely needs cleaning.

If rotating the dial may temporarily "cures" the problem. The permanent fix is to clean the sides of the needle. You can do this. Here's how:

CLEANING THE BOLEX REFLEX LIGHTMETER NEEDLE

1) You need: denatured alcohol or vodka. Very small amount - an ounce or so,  just enough to wet a small cotton swap, like a Q-tip (http://www.qtips.com/).

2) Unscrew the diopter. It turns counterclockwise. It's on tight but you can usually remove it by hand. Once its loose, be sure not to loose the extremely thin adjustment rings. There may be as few a one or as many as 3 rings. They are black and almost invisible. Very easy to loose. The rings are used to make the initial adjustment matching the diopter to a 'relay lens' inside the body. Put these pieces to the side.

3) Rotate the dial to the smallest ASA setting by turning it counterclockwise as far as it will go. This will place the needle all the way to the left side.

4) Using a Q-tip (http://www.qtips.com/) or any other small swab, soak it with the alcohol or vodka, and very carefully, clean (see next) the side of the needle thru the diopter's threaded opening.

5) Carefully touch the top of the needle and brush from the top of the needle downward to the bottom with a very light pressure. Do not brush in / out! Do not brush upwards! The Q-tip can snag on the needle if going upward or bend the needle if it goes in / out. Repeat several times.

6) With the one side finished, remove the swab, rotate the ASA dial fully clockwise. This will move the needle to the right. Soak the unused side of the Q-tip or swab, and again, brush the needle as above. Top to bottom as before. Repeat several times.

7) Reinstall the diopter - don't forget the rings.

If this is successful, the needle will no longer stick to the meter stops at the sides. If it still sticks, the meter stops will, most likely, also need to be cleaned. Trained personal can usually reach the meter stops from the side and clean them. If not, the meter (galvanometer) will need to be removed for cleaning.

8MM FILM EDITING TIPS

Letter to a new filmmaker after shooting his 1st roll...

Congratulations! You are now a filmmaker!

WHAT IS THE 20 SECONDS OF BLACK?

The 20 seconds of black is a leader (unused film) that is wound onto the reel before shooting. There will always be some 'lost' film as 'black' from winding onto the reels. This is typical. Some developers may add a white colored leader to the beginning of the finished film.

LEADER

This allows threading of the film through the projector from the supply reel to the take-up reel without using any 'good' film footage. In your case, the developer has glued both ends of the two pieces of double run film together after processing. 

FLATBED OR EDITOR

What you would do next is to edit the film on a "flatbed or editor" to remove the black areas of film and to edit for content and then add a white leader to the beginning. Leader material:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=8mm+leader&_sacat=0&_odkw=kalart+editor&_osacat=0&_from=R40

The editor or flatbed looks like this:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=8mm+editor&_sacat=0&_from=R40

SPLICING

Typically one would run the film up to the black portions and cut out the black to make an seamless edit from one section to the next. The editor usually has a device to hold the film so it can be cut with a single-edge razor blade. 

After cutting the two ends to be joined are roughened up a bit, overlapped one frame,  and then cemented together using film cement:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=film+cement&_sacat=0&_odkw=8mm+editor&_osacat=0&_from=R40

HOW TO SPLICE

Here's a PDF on how its done. The PDF talks about Super 8, but all film is essentially done in the same fashion.

https://www.sctxca.org/suncity/clubs-groups/sites/computer/media-proj/MovieToDigital/CleaningandSplicing.pdf

The PDF also speaks of "Kodak Presstapes". These are double sided tape used in place of film to splice two pieces of film together. Cementing the two pieces is also common. Some people prefer splices; some prefer glue. I like glue, as I learned it that way. if you decide to do your own editing, practice first on some old footage. You can find exposed reels of film on eBay.

As the footage with be 3 minutes or less, you can mark the box the reel came in with the subject and date, etc. You may want to edit and the collect like footage for inclusion on a larger reel. 7" reels are common and fit most home 8mm projectors. 

You can find the reels on eBay. Make a printed sheet of title indicating which subjects are on that particular reel and tape it to or put it inside the reels box. You should also gives dates, times, places, etc.  20 years down the road you be glad you did :)

EXPOSURE

Re: Exposure.  I recommend keeping a log of f-stops settings were used. And then afterwards, some notes saying what worked, and what didn't. Too light? Too dark, etc. You'll get a feel for how the film works and what adjustment to make when shooting.

PROJECTOR BULB

Be sure the projector bulb is the correct size for the projector. Some people will use a smaller (or larger) bulb. Start with the correct wattage bulb for you projector. Since you'll be showing footage you shot (compensating the light with the cameras f-stop settings), both what you shoot and what you project are interactive.

Also note that some 8mm projectors have a light control. Sometimes its a 2 position switch and sometimes it's a knob. With it, you can increase the brightness of the projected footage. 

TRANSFER TO VIDEO

Finally, you can have the film transferred to video. Transfer houses can adjust light or dark footage during transfer. The adjustment will be small. Typically they cannot correct footage shot several stops too dark or light.