WHY DO BOLEXREPAIR CAMERAS SELL FOR MORE THAN ANYBODY'S ELSE'S?

Because all of our cameras have been rebuilt. 

Consider the cost of an eBay camera at $25 to $75+. It  will typically be in non-serviceable condition. Okay to collect or put on the shelf, but not good for filming. Most of the cameras bought off of eBay will have something wrong with them. All will need to be serviced. After 35 to 50 years of sitting in a closet, the grease and oil will have dried up. That means total disassembly, cleaning and rebuilding.

If you buy an eBay camera, the chance of getting one with all the major assemblies in working order are slim. Usually one of the following will be present:

Fungus in lens or viewfinder
Dirt or rust in viewfinder
Broken spring motor
Light meter inoperative
Battery leakage damaging something
Spring Motor left wound- now unusable
Grease so hard the gears won't turn
Speed regulator faulty
Parts missing
Previous owner tried to "fix" the camera
Leather bindings loose or missing
Plastic dials cracked or missing
No single framing
Film unable to pass through gate
Lightmeter inaccurate
Speed control not working properly
Enter problem here_____________________

If additional parts are necessary in order to fix the first camera, a second camera will have to be purchased. No new parts for these 50+ year old Swiss cameras. Cross your fingers that the second camera doesn't have the same problems as the first. 

Disassemble both. Select the good parts. Clean, lube and replaced all damaged parts. Recalibrate light meter, etc. Clean case and polish. Add all the money you just spent. Don't forget 2x postage, insurance, etc. Multiply the total hours spent to learn and do the work. Add that to the camera parts. What's the camera worth now? $200, $500 – more?

Oh, I almost forgot. Be sure to add the tools, manuals and skills necessary to do the work. The learning curve isn't very long.  Of course, you'll make some mistakes. Loose some parts. Get frustrated.

Maybe that camera at Bolexrepair was a good deal after all!

COMMON BOLEX CAMERA PROBLEMS

PROBLEM:

I did some single frame shots. Then I went back to doing normal filming. After about 5 seconds, the camera stopped. I can wind the camera, but the film only runs a few seconds before the same problem appears. What's wrong?

ANSWER:

Sound like the film has lost its registration. The claw is unable to register into the film so the camera stops running. Fix is to remove and reinstall the film to reset the "loop". Do this in the dark of a closet or inside a changing bag and you can continue to use the film as it will not have been exposed. Done with the film exposed to light will "fog" the film. See below, also.

PROBLEM:

How do I change film in daylight if the entire roll has not been shot?

ANSWER:

Use a changing bag. A changing bag is a dark (usually black) cloth (or plastic) bag sufficient in size to hold both the camera and the film. It's construction design makes it "light tight". The camera and film are put into the bag and the operator (film changer) inserts his hands. Sometimes there is a drawstring to pull, that eliminates any light from entering. Film can then be installed or removed without fogging the film. Exposed film is returned to the canister it was originally supplied in. Here's some links to bag sellers:

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/cinemasupplies/harchanbagsm.html

http://www.jobo.com/joboint/products/changingbag.html

http://www.adorama.com/BLCBL.html

http://www.climaxphoto.com/film_bags.html

You can also find others by searching for " film changing bag" at www.Google.com.

PROBLEM:

I seem to be having problems getting my P1 Bolex to focus. Focus is okay for close subject, but when I zoom out (telephoto), the focus changes. How do I do both?

ANSWER:

Using Zoom lever, zoom out to the farthest telephoto point past subject. Open camera iris all the way (smallest number or f=1.9). This lets in the most light to make focussing easier. Focus using split image on subject or horizontal or vertical line near subject. Now readjust eyepiece (diopter) for sharpest view. If necessary, repeat focussing and viewfinder adjustment. Focus is now set. Diopter is set. Use zoom lever to reframe subject. Adjust iris for correct light. Shoot film.

 PROBLEM:

I can't seem to find fresh film. Any suggestions?

ANSWER:

http://www.8mmfilmstock.com/color8mmfilm.html

http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/catalog/catalog.htm

http://www.spectrafilmandvideo.com/index.html

 Most sellers also do or can have done, your film developing. Some can transfer to Mini-DV or any other video format for editing, at the same time. Ask.

PROBLEM:

I can't find a replacement battery for my P-1's light meter. The original Mallory RM450 (mercury cell) is no longer manufactured. What can I do?

ANSWER:

There are several "fixes". The least intrusive is to use a "WEIN CELL (MRB400)" and a spacer to take up the difference in length. The WEIN cell (1.35-1.4 VDC)  is the correct voltage, last about a year and does not requires any internal modifications to the camera. It is quite a bit shorter so a spacer is required. Depending on which is inserted first, the spacer(s) should be insulated. Some kits use flat washers as spacers. Out kit uses a double insulated aluminum "slug" style spacer which goes in first. Then WEIN cell is inserted with the PLUS (+) sign showing. Then the screw in cap is put in place. No other modifications or recalibration is necessary.

PROBLEM:

On my Bolex Reflex P-1  there appears to be dust or black speck in my viewfinder. Will this cause any problems?

ANSWER:

If the dust or black speck is in the viewfinder, it will not show on the film. The Bolex viewfinder shows an image that is reflected off of the light that passes through the lens onto the film. Small amounts of fine dust on the primary front lens will not be shown either. You should clean or at least check the lens to see if it is clean before every shot. The viewfinder diopter is removable. Turn counter clockwise to unscrew. Don't loose any of the thin spacers that may be there. These spacers adjust the initial range of diopter focus. You can clean both the front and back elements of the diopter using a Q-tip or lens paper. Remove dust or contaminants carefully. Viewfinder lens elements are not coated, but like all glass, can be scratched. After cleaning, reinstall using same spacers. Tighten using the outer part of the diopter with the rubber eyepiece removed.

PROBLEM:

What is fogging?

ANSWER:

Fogging is a condition whereby light contaminates unexposed film causing the film to have a "foggy appearance". This can happen when changing film rolls in sunlight or otherwise exposing the film to unnecessary light. Use a changing bag or at least, change film in a shaded area and run at least a few feet of film before shooting.

PROBLEM:

I think I overwound my Bolex camera. What is overwinding and how does it happen?

ANSWER:

Bolex cameras are powered by a spring motor. The spring motor has a small set of gears that "turn limit" the total amount of turns the spring motor can be wound. This is about 11 ½  full turns for the 8 mm Bolexs. If too much (excessive) force is applied once the turn limit has been reached, the gears will "jump" one over the other. The camera will wind but only a small amount. It will then only run several seconds. The fix is to remove the spring motor and reset the gears to their proper relationship with the internal spring of the motor. If the camera has been left overwound for several years, the spring will be damaged beyond repair.

BOLEX LEATHER CARRYING CASES

Bolex 8 mm cameras were very popular during the 1950s through the 1970's. That make the typical case about 45+ years old. Leather is a very durable material, but only if case maintenance is performed on a regular basis. Most cameras cases have been stored for very long lengths of time and not in good condition.

The first damage usually occurs at the attach points for the two strap ends. Flexing the most, one or both ends will break. By this time, no treatment will return the leather strap portion back to normal use. It's too dried out. The case itself is usually in better condition, even without regular maintenance as the exposed (inside)  part of the case does not dry out as quick.

To clean and recondition a Bolex cases, gently clean any dirt or grime on the case with leather cleaner. We at BolexRepiar.com use LEXOL brand cleaner. LEXOL is pH balanced for leather and helps the leather to remain flexible. Follow the instructions on the cleaner. Then treat the leather with LEXOL Leather conditioner.

The condition will soften the leather and prevent cracking. Lexol products are available at most larger hardware stores. Any leather cleaner and/or conditioner can be use, such as "saddle soap", etc. Lexol is about $7.00 per 7 oz bottle for either the cleaner or conditioner. Lexol is the accepted standard for cleaning and preserving leather.

Use a small, stiff bristle brush to loosen any caked on dirt inside the case and either vacuum or blow out with compressed air. Sometime the inside "lid" of the case (hold filters) will come unglued.

You can use any common "white glue", such as "Elmer's"  or rubber cement ( we use "Pliobond" brand) to re-attached the inside top lid. If you use rubber cement, coat both inside of the case and the back side of the lid with glue. Allow to dry tacky. Press both pieces together. With a minute or so and then pry the two apart. Then assemble one last time and put pressure on the lid to hold in place until the glue sets. New leather straps can be attached to the existing leather band which is usually still on the case. Be sure to use rivets or other mechanical fastener to attach the strap to the case. I have seen glued straps. Not a good idea.

bolex leather cases.doc

BOLEX REFLEX P1-2-3 & D8LA BACKWIND SPRING INSTALL FAQ

BACKWIND SPRING and COVER INSTALL

Note the orientation of the small copper backwind roller spring. It's located on the very bottom end of the cover (as installed). On the other end is the film tension roller. Note its orientation. I suggest a small, hand drawn diagram if you are not sure of how the orientation of these two parts are installed. Install with the film pressure plate removed. Before attempting to install, push the lever (in the center of the cover) towards the gate (lens) of the camera (as installed). This will place the index pin of the pressure plate release in the correct position and make installation possible.

Insert with copper spring end (left side) first. Then center to mounting screw hole, while holding the film tension roller between right thumb and forefinger. I can do it first time usually, but anybody not familiar (no experience) will usually loose (fall off the cover) either or both the small copper backwind roller spring and the film tension roller. Then they won't know which way to install, etc. A diagram really helps. It’s a 3 step process:

1) install small copper backwind roller spring

2) center screw over hole

3) install film tension roller and move end of same into small hole in top plate. The cover supports one end, the hole in the cover plate supports the other.

When the cover is in place, the backwind spring will engage the backwind roller 'teeth", and the bottom end (tip) of the film tension roller will be in it corresponding hole. Some cameras have a plastic spacer on the tip. You can use a very small amount of grease to hold the spacer in place.

Now insert lid latch button and screw. The lid latch button sometimes has a 'lip', so there is an "upper and a lower" side. This lip compensates for the door closing clearance. It is not found on every camera. If the door will not lock or is loose, remove the screw and flip the button upside down. If this doesn't help, the problem is usually with the cover not being centered.  You can actually 'feel' a click when the cover pops into place. Don't force anything.

Check that the small copper backwind roller spring does indeed work by trying to roll the bottom roller back and forth. It should go only one direction, indicating the spring is doing its job. Check the film tension roller. You should be able to push it towards the front of the camera and it should pop back on its own. If not, the spring supplying tension has slipped. Remove the cover, reset the spring (use diagram now!)  and start over.

100 ASA EKTACHROME IN A BOLEX B8SL FAQ

Ektachrome 100ASA 4x faster than the 25ASA film shot in Bolex's B8SL. So, some adaptation is necessary. This particular Kodak film is rated at 100 ASA. Your camera is set up for 10-25 ASA film. The shutter is fixed. Because it's fixed, there is no "half-shutter" option.

Later Bolex 8mm cameras do have a variable shutter, and can do a half or even less shutter. Closing the shutter has the effect of cutting the amount of light entering the camera by reducing the shutter angle. 

Shutter angle is the time as expressed in either:

1) degrees of angle and 

2) fractions of a second when computed with the Frame Per Seconds (FPS) setting of the camera.

To use a 4x faster film (25 ASA compared to 100 ASA) you need to cut the light in half, two times, or 2 stops. 100 cut in half is 50 ASA, 50 ASA cut in half is 25 ASA.

You can do this by several ways:

1) Using a neutral filter (ND) to cut two stops. Referring to the ND CHART located here:

                http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/filter-ND.html

It says that a .6 ND filter will cut two stops. You will need a screw-in type filter holder compatible with the thread of the lens used. Camera stores sell these. Although, they made need it to order it for the Bolex lens'. You may or may not also need and adapter ring to adapter the thread sizes.

Sometimes the lens threads are not the right size and use of a step-up ring/adapter is common. Avoid using two or more filters. Although a .3 ND (1 stop) and another .3 ND (1 stop) do add up to a .6 ND (2 stops), the use of multiple filters can sometimes introduce artifacts. Especially if the camera points towards a strong light source.

 

2) Close the lens f-stop by 2 stops from what the manual tells you to do. This effectively compensates the 100 ASA film to act as 25 ASA as its now not getting enough light (2 stops less). This is what John Schwind recommends. Unfortunately not all Bolex 8mm lens are capable of stopping down to f-22.

3) Calculating the actual f-stop required with a light meter.

F-STOP CALCULATING PROCEDURE

To calculate the actual f-stop required for any film requires using 1) shutter angle, 2) film FPS (speed) and 3) the film's ASA number. Once the f-stop is calculated for that particular films ASA number, you need only dial it in on the lens.

From the tag located on the Bolex's body, and referring to the "American Cinematographer Manual", 4th edition, I calculated (estimated) the shutter angle for the camera running at 16 FPS, to be 170 degrees or 1/35th of a second. We'll use this "ballpark" setting of 135 degrees for filming at 16-18 FPS.

EXAMPLE #1

I'm indoors. Using a Sekonic Studio Deluxe L-398 light meter, I set the ASA to 100. Then I put dome of light meter under chin of subject after the indoor lighting is set. Then press and release the meter 'read' button. The meter shows the incident light reading falling on the subject face.  I might check a couple of other places in the scene where there might be more light in the background than on the subject. If there is 2 people, I would check them both. The light reading of the subject is the reading I'll use.

This is one way to take a meter reading. Hollywood cinematographers use this method commonly. Then, I turn the meter's EV/F-stop "dial ring" until the pointer points the incident light value. In this case, it's about 40.

I look at the "cine scale" and read the f-stop opposite the shutter angle which is expressed in fractions of a second. I know the angle is 1/35 of a second. I see the numbers: 1/30th and 1/60. I figure the value is under the "0" of the 30 (slightly to right of the 30 mark). 

Opposite that 1/35th value (guessed!) I see the f-stop scale. It says about F-2.0. I try to set f-2.0 on the camera lens. I see that the lens I'm using only goes down to f-2.5. Not enough light. Solution: add more light(s). A half stops worth. Since this is film, I could probably get away with using the f-2.0 setting anyhow. Picture will be slightly (1/2 stop darker) than "normal". Whatever "normal" is.  Keep track of finished footage. If consistently darker than you like, adjust f-stop slightly more open than calculated (more light).

EXAMPLE #2

Let's say I'm outdoors. I press the button, the needles jumps off the scale. Oops. Too much light outside. I insert the "high slide" that comes with the meter. The high slide cuts the light to a corresponding scale on the meter. I do the reading as before. The reading is about 140 with the high slide inserted. So, I read opposite the RED colored pointer (high slide pointer).

It says to use f-19 (best guess) for the f-stop setting. This lens goes to f-16. I need to reduce the light by 3 more stops. Looking in my kit bag, I locate a .9ND. That's 3 f-stops reduction. I screw it in and set the f-stop on the lens to f-16 which is the top limit of that particular lens.

There are other considerations. Lenses themselves are usually "little liars". They might say "I'm a f-2.5" on the lens barrel but they might test out to be f-2.9. .4 of a stop darker. And at the other end, the F-16 might actually be something else.

You might put a #85 filter on top of the ND to convert type A film to outdoor. The #85 filter handout says "cuts light by 2/3 of a stop".   2/3 rds of a stop plus .4 equals about 1 full stop. So knowing this, I might add one stop to the lens opening it up to f-16. And another adjustment is I may have used this film type before and it actually looks the best when shot through the Bolex if I set it to 1/2 stop more closed than what is calculated.

When the film is developed, it usually done on batches. If done towards the "end" of the chemical run, the film may be underexposed. Sometime you can ask the developer to wait until he changes chemical and then run you stuff at that time. Or your could pay extra and have you stuff given preference immediately. Ask you friendly developer for advice. Work with them. Ask them what you can do to bright down the processing charges and make their life easier. This is a common practice with film students.

Film has a high latitude for light. 1/2 to 1 full stop either way is typically considered, "ballpark". Not so with inexpensive digital video cameras where you only have a 5 stop range. Go one stop over the limit and the picture is blown out. No detail in the light areas. Go one stop to low and no detail in the dark areas. With film, if you keep records of how a particular film and light meter/camera combination looks when finished and what you did to get it that way, you can alter the final finished product by adjusting the f-stops one way or the other.

Or you can just slap a .9 ND and use the 100 ASA film! Keep a written record of how everything turns out. Adjust f-stops accordingly. If you film is consistently too dark, opening up 1 stop on that lens.

THE LINKS BELOW ARE REFERENCE TO THE ABOVE FAQ

SEKONIC METER MANUAL

                http://www.sekonic.com/images/files/L-398M.pdf

COMPUTING SHUTTER ANGLE

               http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=38463

KODAK EKTACHROME PAGE:

                http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products/reversal/5285faq.shtml

TECHNICAL PDF:

                http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en/motion/products/reversal/5285.pdf

ND CHART:

                http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/filter-ND.html

F-STOP TUTORIAL:

                http://www.uscoles.com/fstop.htm

COMPUTING SHUTTER ANGLE:

                http://www.tcsfilm.com/comm_diag.php#_BOLEX_CAMERAS

FILM SUPPLIERS LIST:

                http://www.bolexrepair.com/links.html

FILTER F-STOP ADJUSTMENTS:

                http://www.cameracraft.com/filters.htm

ND FILTER FAQ

                http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/filter/filter-ND.html

Links come and go, but you can always search for the article title

FILMING WITH A BOLEX P1 CAMERA

SETUP
The Bolex P1 is easy to use. First, load the film. See the Bolex manual for the exact procedure. It's pretty simple - you can do it in subdued daylight (outdoors), indoors or under a jacket, film change bag, etc. The film reels have solid sides so the film will not be exposed. Close the film door. See the latch/lock? Look closely. 

See the single dot (above) and the double dot (below) the lock knob? Flip the lock D-ring so the 2 dot mark is covered up. Later, if you forget, you can reference the dot to tell which half or the reel you are shooting. Single dot = first half of film reel. Double dots showing? You have flipped reel once and are on second and last half of film reel. PS: 'Overt' means open and 'Ferme' means closed (locked).

SET ASA

Set the ASA number from the film you are using onto ASA Dial. Pull lock tab out on the ASA dial with a fingernail, rotate the dial until the FPS (frames per second) number you will be shooting aligns with the ASA speed. Example: if you are shooting at 18 FPS at ASA 100, align the 18 FPS (red color) to 100 ASA number. Push lock toward center of ASA dial to lock dial.

SET SHUTTER

Set shutter to 'open'. The shutter lever should be parallel to the ground and a little silver colored 'half-moon' (open shutter) lines up with the center of the release selector. The release selector selects: run (down position), single frame (center position), and camera motor locked (up)  position.

WIND MOTOR

Wind camera motor until it stops. 22 & 1/2 turns or 11 full turns (approximately) to full wind. Do not force wind the camera wind handle once you feel the 'clunk' and the wind end.  Door closed? D-ring set? Cover the lens with the dust cover. Press the RUN button. Burn a few seconds of film. This is because the beginning of the reel may have been exposed to light when loading film and you don't want the beginning of your epic to start with red/yellow blurs and flashes. Go ahead, 'waste' 3 seconds.

FRAME SUBJECT

Remove the dust cap. Aim camera at subject, need to zoom in or out? Move zoom stick forward or backwards to 'frame" subject. If you can't frame the way you want, physically move your body closer or farther away from subject.

ADJUST FOCUS
Once framing is done, adjust the focus with the focus ring located at extreme end of lens. Turn either way until the 'little screen' in the viewfinder, with the diagonal line, matches up with both sides of the 'split focus'. When the two side 'match up', the picture will no longer be 'split' and it will be in focus.  If the view always appears blurry, adjust the diopter on the eyepiece. 

There's a diopter (focus adjustment) just like on the right lens of a pair of decent binoculars. Focus again. Recheck the diopter as necessary. After you get it set, note the number on the diopter. That is your diopter setting for the eye you are using. Check focus again - all ok?

SET IRIS (diaphragm)

Turn the iris lever until the needle centers. Camera is already wound so you just press the run button on the Declic handle or button on the bottom of the shutter housing, to film. Hold the camera steady. If you move or pan too fast, people will get 'seasick' when watching :)  Rule is to 'go slow'. 

Make sure you keep the camera vertical. Look for vertical objects in the viewfinder such as trees, poles, fences, doors, edges of buildings, power lines,  etc, so you can shoot with the camera vertically. If you make a mistake, tell 'em you were being creative.

FIRST HALF OF REEL

You should always fully wind after each shot. Keep the individual shots short. 5-15 seconds or so. Plan on putting the shots together in or out of order when editing the film. If you don't plan on editing the film, make a written shot list or at least think about what you want to shoot and why. Make the film 'tell a story". 

You can shoot longer shots, but remember that the spring motor will film no more than 4 feet at a time (takes about 23 seconds to go through 4 feet at 24 FPS) on a full wind. The little round counter on the back of the camera is the counting footage from reset (zero). You can tell how many feet are left on the reel. At 25 feet (end of reel), the camera will start 'clicking' every second or so. 

This is the camera telling you that you have hit the end of the 25 feet on the reel (no film left). Flip the first if on the first half of the reel or load another reel of fresh film. Each time you flip the pressure plate lever to change the film, the counter will reset to zero.

After filming on one side (25 feet), open the film door, flip the film from top to bottom, replace it the same as it originally went in (film's dull side or emulsion side of the film stock towards front of camera). You can tell when the first 25 feet is finished by 1) looking at the counter on the back of the camera body or, 2) you will notice the motor speed changes slightly, or 3) the clicking noise. 

It is possible for the motor to continue filming when NO film is passing the gate. You may think you are filming, but nothing will be recorded as the film has reached the end of its 25 foot limit. Check the counter frequently to prevent this from happening. Running the motor without film passing the gate will not cause the camera or film any harm, but you will not capture the moment :(

If the film has come off the supply reel (top reel) during the first half to second half change, thread the film leader back into the take-up reel. Winds a turn or so to hold the film in the reel. Failure to this properly may allow the film end to slip out of the take-up reel and you'll shoot what you think is another 25 feet of film only to find when you open the door that the film has not been loaded properly. 

Reset the film into the take-up reel and try again. Close the film door. Flip D-ring to cover the single dot. Your on the second half of the reel now. Shoot until the film is exhausted. The film has now run through the camera twice and is now back on the original fresh film's (not 100% exposed) reel.

DEVELOP THE FILM

Filming is done. Package the film in the can it came in and mail it to a film developer. Never send in the Bolex metal reel. Usually the film reel holding the exposed film is returned to you. Typically, the film is transferred to a 3" plastic projection reel. And the 'can" is tossed. Ask for the can to be returned if you want it back. 

PROJECT FILM

Time to play film: 1) Load on a 8mm projector and view on against a white wall, sheet, projection screen, or 2) have it transferred to DVD or other format for use with a DVD/CD-ROM/MPEG/Blu-Ray, etc, to play on your TV or computer. 8mm film is MOS - no sound. However, if you want sound, use a small portable recorder like this:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Portable-Digital-Recorders/ci/14934/N/4248627700

to record live audio. Remember, with audio, the closer the recorders' microphone(s) are; the better the audio.  If the film is transferred to a digital format, audio can be added using any number of video editing programs. 

Here are a few:

SONY MOVIE STUDIO

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_24/177-2813413-6602052?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=vegas+movie+studio+hd+11&sprefix=Vegas+Movie+Studio+HD+11%2Caps%2C251

ADOBE PREMIERE

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_14?url=search-alias%3Dcomputers&field-keywords=adobe+premiere+elements+10&sprefix=adobe+premiere%2Ccomputers%2C189&rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A!493964%2Cn%3A541966%2Ck%3Aadobe+premiere+elements+10

Both of these programs are around $100.00. Both have an upgrade path to professional version. I recommend starting with either of these and progressing if you need more features. The pro versions of the program are $400-$600.00 each.

RECAP
All this (except for the audio part), and the editing programs is found in the Bolex P1 Owners Manual. We include a copy on CD-ROM with the camera service/repair. Occasionally the original paper manuals show up on eBay. They sell for $5 to $15.00 depending on the condition. There are people on eBay who have scanned PDF copies to sell and there are those who have reprinted the paper manual.

TESTING SPRING MOTORS

PREFACE
Remove any good film. If you have an old roll (out of date), you can load it. Otherwise do the test without film. It will not make much, if any, difference. This testing assumes the camera is in serviceable condition and ready to shoot film. Any problems you might find may not be with the motor but may be with servicing, i.e., lubrication, dirt, etc. Don't be alarmed if the camera "fails" the test. It may just need a service and not a motor. Or it may need both.

Bolex tests camera motors with a specialized piece of equipment. This process detailed below will show you how to check the motor without any equipment by listening to the sound made by the motor's gears and related mechanisms. The following procedure works on any spring wound motor.


PROCEDURE

1) After removing any good film, make sure the pressure plate gate lever is in the forward or "run position", i.e, against the film or gate area. Close the film door and lock it.

2) Set the FPS selector to 24 FPS.

3) Fully wind the camera.

4) Run the camera and listen to the sound of the motor. If you hold the spring motor close to your ear or press the camera body against the side of your head near your ear, you can hear the motor speed/ sound much better.

5) The motor sound should be consistent from beginning to end. If the motor begins to "slow down" (sound will change) start counting in seconds. One thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, etc. If your counting, remember the number of seconds.


EVALUATE

While the motor is running, it should run smooth. That is, it should not make any "bumping" or grinding noises, as though there is something "wrong" with the spring in the motor. If the motor went from the beginning of the test (full wind) to the end (stopped) and you cannot determine, or hear if it is slowing down, then the camera motor is strong. A full wind will run approximately 21 seconds at full wind and at 24 FPS.

If the camera's motor slows down within 2-5 seconds of the end of the wind,  the camera motor is a little weak but still serviceable. Bolex recommends fully winding the motor after each shot. A typical shot may be 3-10 seconds or longer - up to the 21 second limit.

Remember this is film, not video. Film shooters plan their shots in advance and accurately estimate the length of the clip. They break up longer shots into less than 20 seconds. No wasted footage or camera stopping during a planned shot. Videographers tend to shot everything and sort/cut in post production.  If you know the camera is weak in the last 3-5 seconds, limit your shots to 14-15 seconds or so.

If the motor begins to slow down, and your count is higher than 5 seconds, the motor is considered weak. This could be from lack of lubrication, the speed governor assembly could be dirty, or some other problem. Service is indicated.


REPLACEMENT MOTORS

New replacement motors are not available from Bolex for the 8mm "Double Run" series. The 8mm series of Bolex "Double Run" cameras have been out of production for approximately 50+ years. However, there is an ample supply of used cameras for sale on eBay. If you need another spring motor, you can buy a complete camera for parts. Look for a camera based on cost. Typically the motor will be ok.

Try to purchase a camera with of the same model number and a serial number near yours. If that can't be done, try for a close year. If you have the serial number, you can look up the year of manufacture here:

http://www.bolexcollector.com/cameras.html


MOTOR DAMAGE
Spring motors can be damaged from overwinding, overuse, or long term storage. Bolex says you cannot overwind - but you can. If the camera was stored fully wound, the flat spring in the motor to take a permanent "set". In this case, it will make a "bumping noise" when running. You WILL hear the "bumping" as well as feel it.


DIFFERENT PARTS

The are at least 2 different spring motors for the 8mm double-run Bolex cameras. The difference is the diameter of the (1) spindle drive gear located at the top of the spring motor. It engages both the lower spindle drive gear and the footage counter drive gear.  Both these gear are located on the underside of the top plate. There are (2) spring motor drive gear diameters: early - .648" and  late - .683".

If you get another camera (late) as a donor and your camera (early) has the other motor, it may still be usable. You can switch top plates with the cameras and the take-up spindle and counter drive gears will mesh correctly.

No guarantees here. Some top plates are different. The P series (Reflex) top plates are not compatible with non-reflex series top plates.  The reflex series plate is missing the "notch" cut out of the back of the plate where the redesigned case now covers the redesigned footage counter mechanism.

Bolex parts are mostly interchangeable, however. When newer models are released sometimes older parts are used. It is NOT uncommon, for example,  to find a D8LA camera with a serial number for a D8L.

Good luck!