BOLEX L8 LENSES AND ADAPTERS

A customer writes: "I need the correct adapter to use with my antique Bolex L8 8mm camera. Can you help?" I have to answer, sorry - no. The adapters are quite rare. However, they do show up for sale on eBay, occasionally. You may however, have to buy a complete camera to get the adapter :(  

Fortunately, the cameras are NOT a popular seller, so the price may be affordable. Be sure you verify with the seller that camera comes with adapter.

I just looked on eBay (old and new sales). Of the 2 cameras I saw for sale, neither had the LUGOM adapter, although BOTH had D-mount lenses! So both were not usable for filming. Also, you can occasionally surf the net searching for the word: 

             LUGOM

A lot of L8 cameras were sold in the UK, so you may find a camera dealer/ebayer selling a LUGOM adapter.

L-8 RING ADAPTOR FAQ

(from: http://www.bolexcollector.com/accessories/filter50.html)

"This was a D-mount lens mount adaptor for use with L8 cameras. The L8 cameras used a non-standard lens mount. Although the thread diameter was similar to a D-mount (5/8" or 15.8mm), the setting was different (0.3075" or 7.8mm). The L8 Ring Adaptor (LUGOM) allowed normal d-mount lenses to be used by increasing the setting to 0.484" (12.29mm).

 It was simply attached to the lens mount; the desired d-mount lens was then screwed into the adapter. Although they're not rare, they seem to be difficult to find. It can be identified by the word "L8" stamped on the side of the ring."

COLLECTABLE

The L8 is collectable if only given the fact that it is a Bolex. The camera is very complicated internally. So much so, Bolexrepair.com services them by quote, only. Other, later 8mm Bolexs are typically the same internally and are much easier to service. The L8 is the "oddball". The need for a lens adapter didn't help, either.

Bolex 8mm cameras typically use a prime mount which takes a "D-mount" lens. Most D-Mount lenses will fit and work. Bolex sold 2 brands of their own: Yvar and Switar. Switars are the premium lenses. Both are difficult to clean and reassemble and, as necessary, collimate (align) the lens. Collimating a lens will most likely NOT be possible, so sometimes the only fix for a dirty Bolex lens is to replace it :(

OTHER USABLE LENSES

Elgeet brand 8mm D-mount lenses are very nice. USA made with stainless steel bodies, these lenses fully disassemble to allow complete cleaning.

Japanese Yashica D-mount lenses are the same thread and focal size. However the body diameter is slightly larger and they can interfere with each other in multiple lens configuration. The L8 has only one lens mount, so the Yashica lenses will most likely work. 

The cost for lenses in very low compared to the high quality.  Typically a 3 lenses Yashica 8mm camera is about $25 to $50.00+ on ebay.

LENSES LIMITING FACTOR

The limiting resolution factor of any 8mm lens is the film grain. All film has "grain" from the silver halide crystals used in the manufacture of film. The crystals are the same size, but are more noticeable as the film size goes down. 8mm film stock is cut from 16mm film stock which is cut from 35mm film stock. The sprocket holes are re-punched as necessary. 

Because of the grain of 8mm film, lens manufacture becomes less critical and/or noticeable. The grain could "cover up" lens deficiencies. Small imperfections in the form of microscopic air bubbles in both camera and projection lenses is common and not visually noticeable when projecting onto a screen. This is very different as compared to 16mm and 35mm lenses image quality (IQ) is "King". Cost is a factor, also. Better lenses cost more money. The Top-of-The-Line Switar f/0.9 lens sells for $300-$500, today!

  

FIXED FOCUS LENS

A large number of Elgeet lenses are designed to be "fixed focus". Regardless of where the iris is set in these lenses, the image will always be sharp.Easy to set and use. Just meter the scene and dial in the required f /stop.

OBSERVATION

8mm lenses choice seems to be based on: 1) the finished film look and/or 2) the ability to clean the lens elements. I prefer Elgeet lenses (fixed focus or with focus ring). Some people prefer Bolex original lenses (Switars and Yvars). Some like a particular lens just because it "looks cool".

ADDING SOUND TO BOLEX 8MM CAMERAS

QUESTION:  "Would it be possible to have a flash sync contact added to my bolex p2 ? I'm looking for a way to connect it to my sync pulse box in order to shoot with sync sound."

ANSWER:  I don't know of any way to sync the P2 to audio. The typical/usual method for MOS (no sound) cameras is to record sound via the "Double-system" recording method:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-system_recording

The finished film is converted to digital format and the sound track is added in post. Any small differences in the recording rates for sound can be corrected in post.

You can use any digital or analog sound recording system. Digital will give you cleaner audio. Typically recorders:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ns=p_PRICE_2|0&ci=14934&N=3992462091&srtclk=sort

I use this one:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/832911-REG/Tascam_DR100MKII_DR_100mkII_Portable_Linear.html

I recommend using something like this with XLR inputs. The DR-100 MKII has 2.

Use a shotgun mic on a pole with a shock mount. I have a this mic:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/97711-REG/Audio_Technica_AT8035_AT8035_Shotgun_Microphone.html

I use this pole and a shock mount:

     http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Microphone-Accessories/Microphone-Fishpoles/Testrite-Instrument-Co/MFP-2.xhtml

I bought the long one (150" fully extended) used, off of eBay for $35 plus S&H.  The Testrite poles are the cheapest. You can buy lighter poles for more money. The Testrites are aluminum and well made. Can't complain for the price.

I got the shock mount here:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/68143-REG/Audio_Technica_AT8415_AT8415_Universal_Shock_Mount.html

Try to get the mic as close as possible to the speaking person. Typically about a meter away from the speaker face. Aim the mic like a gun - right at the face. Be sure to keep the mic out of the picture. Practice with the camera operator.

A shotgun mic helps eliminate the sound from the sound sources to the sides of the microphone. A handy feature to get cleaner sound. AVOID anything mounted on or near the camera's body.  Bolex cameras are really noisy. Gears and such :)

You can also use a wireless mic such as these:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=sony+wireless+mic&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

HISTORY
Bolex 8mm cameras never had sound. They were designed as MOS (no sound). Sound recorders back then were tape based. Not very good, except for the Nagra system which cost thousands :( 

And because the film systems were 100% film based, to get sound from 8mm film you would have to print (optically copy) the 8mm film to 16mm sound film and make a sound track transfer. 

Very expensive. 

Since 8mm films were typically very short; nobody added sound. You just flipped the projector on and spoke about what you saw...

...this is where Harry saw Bigfoot and...

Super8 film stock did have a sound track and the cameras came with a built-in microphone. Super8 film stock is still sold, but it no longer includes a "Magstrip", or magnetic. I.e, the recording sound track :(  

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=super8+film+stock&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

Keep in mind that some of the above film stock is marked "Super8". It will NOT fit in your P1-P2 or P3. Avoid ANY film stock that says, "Super8". Super8 film stock ONLY fits and ONLY works in Super8 cameras. And remember, NO sound.

You will need to use "Double Run" film stock:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=double+run+8+film+stock&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=

The 2 stocks are totally different. Keep that in mind. If your Bolex camera has 2 reels, it uses "Double run or Regular 8" - not Super8 film stock. 

When using a "double-system" recording, you will need to sync the sound to the footage. Use a slate or clapboard like these:

      http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Production-Slates/ci/16664/N/4028759379

 I used this one:

     http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/885803-REG/Alan_Gordon_Enterprises_1050_02color_Color_Combo_Scene_Slate_Pouch_Marker.html

The click (clap) of the clapper/slate gives you an audible point to sync (align) the sound. The markings on the slate gives you the scene #, etc.  Makes things easier in post. 

No slate? Clap hands in front of lens just prior to action and have the person who claps their hands speak the scene number, etc.

INTERMEDIATE GEAR PROBLEMS

All bolex 8mm cameras are spring wound. The torque from the spring motor drives an intermediate gear which in turn drives a vertical shaft that interfaces with the speed regulator and the claw mechanism. If you have a Bolex 8mm camera, there is one of these gears inside your camera. You want to repair the camera? You need to do a few things first or you will have a intermediate gear problem. Here's why...

Unwind Me

The first step to repair any spring wound camera is to 'run the motor down'. This means to press the run button until the camera motor stops turning. Not sure? Button doesn't start the camera?

Older cameras are lubricated with both oil and grease. After 50+ years of storage, the grease can harden. The hardened grease can prevent the motor from working. Solution? Remove and re-lubricate. To do this you need to disassemble the camera. This is where the intermediate gear can get damaged.

If you fail to run the motor down properly, the remaining spring tension will still be applying torque to the drive gears. Not knowing this, you remove the 5 screws holding down the cameras top plate and remove the plate. You see the insides of the camera. The gears, regulator, the spring motor, etc. You think, "All I need to do is to oil or grease them!" 

Well...not quite.

They are still filthy dirty so they should be cleaned. You figure this out too and look over the camera. You find the 4 screws holding down the shutter assembly. You accurately conclude that removing the 4 screws will allow you to remove the shutter assembly and further disassemble the camera. So out comes the screwdriver and you take out the 4 screws.

Pleased that you are saving money by doing it yourself, you carefully pull off the shutter.

Bzzzzzzzzzzz-zap!

You look inside and see all the teeth of the intermediate gear fully stripped off. Oops! The spring motor supplied the torque. The only thing keeping the spring motor's gear from turning was the shutter and you disconnected that when you removed it. The springs motor forced the intermediate gear to turn at "light speed" and during the rapid unwind, the bakelite (plastic) gear teeth grazed another metal gear. This sheared off all those teeth.

You now need another intermediate gear :( You may need another spring motor, too - Whaaaaaa!!!! Spring motors do NOT like to go from wound to unwound in less than a split second. It can damage the internal flat spring when it hits the end stop.

Need replacements parts? Bolexrepair.com has them.

Next time - run the motor down :)

SHUTTER CONTROL AND F/STOPS

Can I Cut The Light With The Shutter Setting?

Bolex D8L shutter settings varies from about 180 degrees (the silver half-moon) to zero degrees (the black half-moon). The half way setting of  90 degrees is accurate enough. So the answer is yes, you can a light cut 1 stop by selecting the mid point shutter setting. Controlling the light with the shutter does works well in still photography as the images are not moving.

If you set the shutter to half-closed (the half black/half silver HALF MOON symbol on the shutter dial), that setting is half way from the maximum open of 180 degrees to fully closed. About  90 degrees. The shutter angle will be cut by 1 stop. See page 47 of the Bolex D8L manual.

See this link for more of how a shutter works:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_%28photography%29

D8L accuracy is not specified, but it should be in "ballpark acceptable". As with all footage shot on a Bolex, keeping records of the setting and the results is a very good idea. Everybody's mileage will vary as the camera settings/projectors/screen combinations will always be different.

Movie Film Camera

Use and effect of the shutter is slightly different with a movie film camera.  There are 3 basic ways to set light with a motion picture camera:

          1) Set the iris for the light - The DOF will be what

          it will be. This is how the Bolex manual explains

          setting the iris for the light.

          2) Set the pre-selected DOF with the iris, and

          control the light with ND filters or more light.

          3) Use both ND filter and iris settings in

          combination.

The method of setting light in professional motion picture film production cameras is primarily through a pre-determined iris setting (f-stop) and then re-adjusted for actual light using neutral density (ND) filters. Typically you will have either too much light or not enough.

With too much light, you can close the iris slightly or add an ND filter. Too little light, open the iris or take out or decrease the ND filter's strength. The situation here is changing the iris will affect the depth of field (DOF). ND filters will not affect the DOF.

How To Set

First, you select the location (indoors or outdoors) and the subject. Say you desire an f~5.6 setting for a slightly blurred background. Using your lightmeter, get the approximate f-stop setting by metering the subject after dialing in the f-stop for f~5.6 on the light meter's dial. Next, add or subtract light, as necessary using ND filter, bounce cards, light fixture, etc, to get the correct amount of light.

More Or Less Light

Outdoor light can be raised with a bounce card, an auxiliary hot light, etc. Outdoor light can be cut with an ND filter and anything that will lessen the light falling on the subject. Indoor lighting can be adjusted with bulb changes, additional lamp fixtures, scrims, etc, or ND filters. Obviously this is more work than just turning the iris to f-8 to chop 1 stop of light.

Effect of Short Shutter Angle On The Look Of The Film

If you use the shutter control to chop that one stop of light, the resultant moving picture image(s) will also be changed. The shutter's angle is now at a shorter angle of 45 degrees and can now impart a "stuttering appearance" onto the film depending on other settings. See "Saving Private Ryan", or The Gladiator", for examples of short (45 degree) shutter angles.

Also keep in mind that shorter angles will affect panning rates. Anytime a panning rate exceeds a particular speed/shutter angle/FPS settings, a corresponding condition will be created called "Rolling Shutter". Also known as "The Jello Effect" because of the look of the effect on the finished film. The rolling shutter/jello effect has been with filmmaking since the 1st film camera was invented. Is due to too fast of a pan rate and is 100% operator controllable. Got rolling shutter? Pan slower.

More here:

          http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_shutter

ND filters or gels can also be used over windows to control light. Windowed gels can be used in conjunction with other lens filters to allow sunlight to be shot with indoor film. Or you can gel the indoor lights to match the outdoor light color temperatures coming through windows. With a film camera there is no white balance to correct for off-white conditions, but you can have the film converted to digital format and balance the digital footage if the color is slightly off.

Here's a link with some more info:

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shutter_speed

     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rotary_disc_shutter

And finally, there is a somewhat rude, but technically correct answer, as to the effects of small shutter angles in a motion picture camera:

     http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120306163953AARUh4C

SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTION FOR BOLEX REFLEX BATTERY KIT

Besides a dead battery, there are a few things that could be affecting the needle movement / lightmeter operation...

1) The needle itself is 'stuck' to one side. This is typical after 50+ years of dirt and grime. The needle can 'stick" to the small, tubular, white colored,  plastic stop(s) on either side the galvanometer. Next time it happens, try rotating the ASA dial all the way in one direction and then the other, and finally back to your normal ASA setting. If the needle was stuck, this will usually dislodge it. The permanent cure is to remove the eyepiece diopter, and very, very carefully, clean the sides of the needle with a small swab soaked in alcohol. If you can see a 'fuzzy edge' on either side of the needle; the needle needs cleaning.

2) Some 'home-made' reflex battery adapters are built from a "stack of washers" or similar. The contact points between the washers can corrode or otherwise not make electrical contact. This causes an interruption in the battery circuit and the needle won't function. Loosening and re-tightening the battery cover may fix the problem temporarily. One of our customers even uses a wad of aluminum foil wrapped with tape as an adapter.

3) The 'U' shaped spring at the bottom of the battery may be permanently flattened. This can happen if the 'home-made' adapter length is too long. Sometimes the spring is broken in half at the bend section, and the new adapter is made to take up the difference in length. There will not be any tension from the spring so contact will depend on the battery cover being screw down tightly. If it is screwed down too tight, the spring holder (plug) itself will be pushed away from the cameras body. This in turn will prevent the ground ring from making a good ground connection with the camera body and the circuit may be interrupted.

4) Corrosion on the connections inside the camera located on the backside of the plug can cause an intermittent open. There are (2) wires. One connected to the grounding ring and 1 is connected (soldered) to the rivet holding the spring to the plug. If there is enough corrosion, the wires can have intermittent/bad contact. The fix is to replace the wires and/or the plug. Unfortunately, one of the wire going into the shutter is a "Litz wire". Litz wire is a woven strand type of wire. 

The weaving of the strands acts like a 'sponge" and leaking mercury can 'wick' its way all along the wire. As this happens, the wire corrodes and disintegrates. Typically up to the furthest point inside the shutter housing. Repair requires complete disassembly of the shutter housing and replacement of the Litz wire.

5) There is corrosion on the ground ring that is in between the plug and the camera body. The corrosion is caused typically, by a mercury battery being left in the camera too long and subsequently leaking creating a greenish-whitish powder-like coating. 

     BONUS! The ring is nickel plated steel and the camera body where is grounds is
     aluminum. Two dissimilar metals will most always promote corrosion.

This corrosion can be 1) on the threads of the cap and body or, 2) on or near the spring in the battery well. Sometimes the corrosion is superficial and while present, doesn't cause any problems. If corrosion is present, the battery contacts and related parts should be cleaned thoroughly. You can swab the battery well with plain vinegar, which is 5% acetic acid, and the acid will neutralize and dissolve the corrosion. Swap again with alcohol to remove any trace of the acid.

 

WE CAN FIX IT

If, when installing a BolexRepair battery replacement kit, you notice that the battery well spring in your camera is damaged, bent, missing, corroded, etc, we can replace the plug/spring and/or make a custom length adapter to specification. The normal gap length at the tip of the spring should be about 1/8".  

If the spring is bend down slightly (less than 1/8" gap), don't pull it up! This may cause the spring to crack or break. Best thing to do here is to insert a small piece (1/8" thick or so) foam rubber between the spring back and the black plastic spring holder. This will add a small amount of pressure to the back side of the spring. Be sure not to add to much. Just enough to cause the spring to move away from the bottom of the battery well.

If the tip of the spring is nearly closed, or is smashed flat, the adapter probably will not work. There is only about .025-.040" of compression of the spring necessary when the battery cap is fully seated. Machined aluminum adapters, as supplied with our kit, take up the exact length required for use with the thinner PR44 or 675 battery. Our adapter does not allow for damaged springs. Please contact us for an estimate to repair the battery well spring and/or rewire the lightmeter circuit

For more information on the lightmeter battery adapter kit:

http://www.bolexrepair.com/accs.html

LENS DUST AND OTHER PROBLEMS

What is lens dust and should I even worry about it? Maybe. Small amounts of dust and flecks are a very common issue for all lenses. A small amount of dust will have no effect on a lens' performance. Older lenses will always have some dust.

Inspecting Lens For Dust

Looking at the front or objective element of the lens, you can typically see some dust particles in all lenses.  To check closer, remove any filters and clean the front element of the objective lens. Looking straight into the lens from the lens' front, and look for dust. Then inspect the lens holding it at a slight angle and you may see more dust behind the front glass element.

Use a LED flashlight and with the camera iris open as far as possible (smallest f number possible), shine it looking again from the front side of the lens. A darkened room will help. While changing the angle, look for more dust. You will most likely see some dust perhaps only on one element.

If you find dust, and you most likely will, there is no cause for alarm. The dust typically does not cause any problems during filming. The reason is the dust is NOT located within any areas where the dust can have any real, noticeable effects. 

How Lenses Gather Dust

How does dust get inside a lens? Every time a lens is focused in and out, it “breathes”. The physical length on the lens is slightly changed and the resulting change compresses (pushes air out) or draws (pulls air in) air into the lens. 

It is during this lens "breathing" than the lens tends to "inhale dust particles". Dust can enter the lens as most lens to not have tight seals. If lenses were completely sealed to air entry, the lens would compress the air and hinder focusing.

What To Do With Lens Dust

You have notice some dust in your lenses. What should you do? Usually the fix is to "do nothing". Don’t be concerned  about it. You can minimize dust problems by storing your lenses properly and doing routine cleaning on a regular basis. 

Can I Remove Lens Dust Myself?

Don't try to remove internal dust youself. If the dust shows on finished film you basically, have 2 options: 1) have the dust cleaned by a professional or 2) replace the lens. If you decide to have the lens cleaned by a professional, get an estimate first. The cost to clean the lens may be more than the replacement cost. 

Some people think they can "blow the dust out" with compressed air. This does not work. More likely you will drive even more dust in to the lens body. Best bet is to leave it alone unless is presents a problem and then have it either professionally cleaned or replace it.

If it is a Bolex made Switar or Yvar lens, you may be able to find somebody to clean it. Maybe not. There is more to cleaning a lens than just unscrewing a few things and dusting off the elements. Some lenses need to be re-collimated. A fancy word for realigned, and it requires expensive equipment. 

Some other lenses such as Elgeet, Wolensak and others, are designed to easily come apart to be cleaned. A warning to those who would take a chance and work on their own lenses:

Be sure if you do this yourself that you note the order of the elements and the direction (in or out) of the curved part(s) of the element. Some lens elements look flat but are actually curved slightly. If you put element in backwards,  the lens will not function correctly. 

You may leave a fingerprint on the lens element. Be sure to clean it. Fingers have both acid and oil on them and can actually etch the glass rendering the lens useless. Lens parts and screws are very, very tiny easy to loose and very difficult to find. For a lens cleaning solution, the best is made by Pancro. You can mail-order it here:

                      http://www.filmtools.com/panlencleanf.html

Minimizing Dust And Fungus

Shooting in relatively clean environments, properly storing your gear in a cool, dry place and take care of it by performing regular cleaning and maintenance is the best way to eliminate fungus and minimize the amount of dust that ends up on and in your gear. 

If you are in a high humidity environment, consider using anti-moisture packets. Do a Google search on "moisture absorber packets".

Fungus

High moisture will contribute to fungus. Fungus typically looks like a light-ish white to dark black, wispy fine hairs in a small spot or as a black "dot". Depends on the type of fungi in the area where the lens used to live. If the fungus is on the inside of the objective lens, it can usually, but not always, be cleaned off.

If the spot is small, and/or located on the outer edge of any lens element, it typically will not show or affect the film's quality. 

It depends on the lens involved and location of the elements. Fungus left to its own devices over a long period of time can permanently damage a lens' coating. If fungus is on an element that has been coated, cleaning the fungus may remove some or all of the coating. Any doubt? Don't clean it.

Haze

Haze is a grayish appearing coating. It is formed from storage in a high temperature environment and the chemicals of the lubricant are "off-gassed" and reform onto the lens element surfaces.  Haze may look smoky or oily. Haze can be cleaned.

Scratches

If a scratch is big enough to see, chances are it may show as a bright line on finished film. Unless you want the look, the lens is not usable if its on finished film. No fix - replace. Small, fine scratches near the outer edges of the front element can be ignored if they don't show in finished film. 

Very fine scratches aka, "cleaning marks" are probably not a concern. If you are buying from eBay, ask about seller's return policy and bid lower on the lens. If it films ok, you got a deal. If not, return it.

HOW TO CLEAN YOUR LENS AND FILTERS

TOOLS FOR CLEANING LENSES AND FILTERS

• Air blower (Never canned air!)
• Camel-hair brush
• Lens tissue or micro-fiber cloth
• PANCRO
• Methyl alcohol or Ethel alcohol

THE PROPER TECHNIQUE FOR CLEANING YOUR LENS OR FILTER

The surface of most camera’s lens has a coating designed to maximize contrast, color saturation as well as minimize flare. These coatings can be scratched easily when cleaning a lens, so it’s a good idea to pay attention.

1ST BRUSH OFF THE DIRT

If dust is the only problem, use a camel hair brush. Avoid using pressurized canned air. Canned air can actually blow dirt INTO the lens. Use a brush first will avoid scratching the lens surface.

SMUDGES

For smudges and fingerprints, take use  a soft micro-fiber cloth, Kimwipe, or a piece of lens tissue (folded, not bunched up), breathe onto the lens surface (never dry-clean a lens) and gently wipe the lens surface in a circular motion. Repeat if needed using a fresh piece of lens tissue or clean portion of the micro fiber cloth. 

KIMWIPES AND PANCRO

If this doesn’t work, spray a Kimwipe with Pancro cleaning solution or try dampening the tissue or cloth with a few drops of methanol (wood alcohol) or alcohol based lens-cleaning fluid and then, very gently, wipe the lens in a circular motion.

If the lens if filthy, repeat the procedure. Do not press hard down on the lens. Let the tissue and the solution do the work. The best of all possible wet cleaning solutions, in my opinion, is "Pancro". I use Kimwipes with Pancro.

KIMWIPES

Get 'em here or locally:

http://www.amazon.com/Kimberly-Clark%C2%AE-Professional-KIMWIPES-Delicate-Wipes/dp/B002XJKWO0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1362510557&sr=8-2&keywords=kimwipes

PANCRO

Pancro is available from several sources. All are mail-order. It is used by all of Hollywood's best Assistant Camera Operators to clean lenses. It not cheap, either. About $16 for 4 fluid ounces, plus S&H. Pancro advertises that they are the best. Their users say the same thing. Got valuable lenses? Use Pancro. You can find Pancro here:

http://www.filmtools.com/panlencleanf.html

                "Pancro Lens cleaning Fluid was judged the hands down best

                  lens cleaning solution at the Camera Assistant Olympics a few 

                  years back. It is considered the absolute best product in its field  

                  and is the first choice by most Camera Assistants world-wide. 

                  Made in USA."

SOLUTION TO PAPER

Never apply alcohol or lens-cleaning fluids directly onto the lens surface. It can leak into the lens (if unsealed), wick up, and streak the objective (front) lens on the inside. Apply any wet cleaning solution to the cleaning cloth or lens paper, first. Then do the cleaning. Some people like to fold the tissue flat. I prefer to bunch it up and apply the least amount of pressure possible letting the paper and the solution do the work.

EMERGENCY CLEANING

If necessary in a pinch, you can use a t-shirt or other cotton shirt or similar cotton-based material. Don't use facial tissue, paper towels, or polyester-based materials. A good photographer will always have a clean, cotton handkerchief with them for emergencies.

CLEAN NOW OR LATER

If their is a negligible amount of foreign contaminates on the lens and it is not going to affect film image quality and you do not have the proper cleaning gear, then consider waiting.

GOT DUST?

A few bits of dust floating between lens inner elements, or stuck to elements will have little, if any, visible impact on the sharpness levels of your photographs. Ignore it. Almost all lenses have some degree of dust internally. If you can't see it in the viewfinder; is won't be in the picture. If you see what appears to be dust in the viewfinder in a Bolex Reflex series camera, it most likely is on the reflex viewfinder and it won't show in the footage.